Worm Composting is as easy as....
Composting with worms, vermiculture, can be as simple or as elaborate as you want. With these 3 items and some basic instruction you will be on your way to putting your organic waste to work for you!
Worms
Yes the star of the show, compost worms. We will discuss which ones and their basic needs. You will find more information in the Composting Worms page as well.
Worm Bin
Worm bins can be made of, and from, many different things. Bins can be created to fit a particular space, or sized to fit your organic composting needs.
Worm Bedding
The "browns" in your worm bin. Bedding can be purchased or recycled paper products. Bedding is an important part as it will eventually become castings as well.
1. Worms
The star of the show
What kind of worms?
In North American there are about 5 different species of compost worms. “Red Worms” is a common term and can refer to the most common worm, Eisenia Foetida. Each of the 5 varieties have unique features and benefits. However they all like to co habitat, which is why it is often hard to find as a single species in our composting environment. Unlike other earthworms, whom you may find when digging in your garden, or see crawling across your lawn after a rainfall, these varieties of compost worms thrive in rotting vegetation and compost, and are considered surface or shallow dwellers.
How much do I need?
Worms are usually sold by the pound and the amount you need depends on how much organics your going to compost. To help you decided trying saving your organics for a week and see how much you have. Compost worms can consume about 1/2 their body weight a day. For a about 2 pounds of organics you will need about 1 pound of worms.
2. Worm Bin
Build new, upcycle or buy..
What is a worm bin?
The worm bin is where you will keep your compost worms. Worm bins can be made from many different materials and endless shapes and sizes. You can construct a new worm bin to fit in that perfect space, or find a new use for an old dresser drawer. There are just a few requirements for a worm bin. 1. It must be able to keep the bedding moist. 2. Made from material that won’t leach harmful toxins into the bin (like treated wood). 3. Should have about one square foot of surface space per pound of worms.
Worm bin types
There are 2 types of worm bins, a box system, or a flow through system. Each types has its advantages. Box systems require more hands on involvement to harvest the casting. Box bins can be easily constructed using simple tools and materials. Flow through systems are stacked bins that allow the worms to move upwards to follow the organics. As the worms move upwards the casting are left behind. Flow through systems required less effort to harvest your castings.
What can you build a bin with?
Most bins, boxes or flow through, are either built with wood, or plastic. These can be constructed to fit a specific space, or be upcycled or purchased.
Both materials have their advantages and disadvantages.
Wood advantages
- Wooden bins are the most versatile and can be built to fit in any
location, like a window bench, or under the kitchen sink. - You can use new wood, recycled wood, or an old wine crate as long as it will not leach any toxins into your bins.
- Go ahead and paint the outside, make it a unique piece of art but your worms prefer just plain old natural wood on the inside.
- Wooden bins breathe so they require few air holes and excess moisture is absorbed by the wood.
Wood disavantages
- The disadvantage to wood is that it does absorb water and will therefore rot. Meaning they do not last as long as a plastic bin.
- Due to water absorption where you place your bin does matter, so the location of this bin may take some thought.
Plastic or non pourous material advantages
e.
- Plastic bins are cheap and available in many different sizes and shapes.
- They come with a lid and if you choose to not put drain holes in the bottom you can literally place them anywhere.
Plastic or non pourous material disadvantages
- They tend to hold moisture, so it requires drain holes on the bottom. Or if you want no drain holes watch for excess liquid in the bottom, which could drown your worms.
- Plastic bins do not breathe well. Solid bins (not flow through), require you to a drill a few air holes to ensure your bin does not go anaerobic.
3. Worm Bedding
Oh the choices!
Fill your bin with bedding.
In your worm bin you need to provide your worms with bedding. The bedding is what you will bury the food scrapes and is a very important part of your worm bin. The bedding acts as a place for the worms to escape too if their bin becomes to acidic, or otherwise inhabitable.
Several points to remember when choosing your worm bedding is:
* it needs to retain moisture
* ph neutral and aged past the point of heating up
* be loose and not compact which allows for air passage
Shredded newsprint
Shredded paper and newsprint is easy and free! Use a paper shredder, scissors or just rip into small pieces. Use only printed paper, no glossy materials. newsprint and paper is best combined with cardboard or coire.
Shredded cardboard
Cardboard is great for bedding. It does not compact and can be found everywhere for price of collecting it! No highly colored cereal boxes though. Can be used on its own or added to other bedding to ensure lots of air flow..
Coconut coire
One of few bedding you can purchase. Coire is shredded coconut husks and are the renewable and better choice over peat. Coire is great because it does not compact and can be used in combination with other bedding.
Putting in all together.
Ok, so you’ve read all about the 3 items you need.
You have ordered your worms, picked out or made your worm bin, figured out what bedding you will use.
Now get the organics bucket of food scraps from under the sink and lets begin.
Box System
- Shred and moisten the bedding, until is about as wet as a rung out sponge.
- Add air vetns to your bin if needed, and then fill your box bin about 3/4 gull of bedding.
- Add your worms. You can pull back your bedding or place onthe surface. Keep the bin under light for about 24 hours which will force the worms to stay in their new home.
- Start adding your organics. Bury the organics in a new spot every time every couple of days, or whenever you see most of the older organics are gone. Fruit flies are often a sign that you have over feed, or not buried the organics.
Flow through System
- Start with the first tray and place a few sheets of damp newsprint on the bottom to stop the contents from falling through.
- Fill the first tray about 1/2 way with damp bedding.
- Place a few handful of organics on one side of the tray and cover with damp bedding.
- Place your worms in the tray and leave in the light for about 24 hours to force your worms into their new home.
- When feeding place your organics on top of the bedding and cover with a new damp bedding. continue until the tray is full and add the next tray when the bottom of the new tray will touch the old bedding.
- Keep building until all the trays, usually 4 or 5, are full. Then harvest the bottom tray and keep going. More details in the casting page.